New Hampshire: Up the Notch

Today was another day of exploration. With a couple of stops in mind and the big map we set off up Bear Notch Road. Bear Notch Road is a very steep, winding mountain pass that is closed in winter but offers terrific views from the top of the Mount Washington Valley. It's also a handy shortcut across from Bartlett to The Kanc. 



Once on The Kanc we headed north to North Woodstock, where we had a terrific lunch at the wonderful Woodstock Inn. We stocked up on maple syrup supplies at Fadden's, purveyors of the best maple syrup around and perused the array of Glocks, rifles and crossbows at the gun store, which is up for sale in case anyone wants to buy a gun store in North Woodstock and took a walk down to the Pemigewasset River, which is just beautiful. 


We headed north again up to Franconia Notch, past the Old Man in the Mountain, or at least his mountain, up to Mount Lafayette and the grinning Govenor Gannon memorial, then across to Franconia. Last year we had stumbled across a delightful bar in Franconia called The Dutch Treat, where the welcome is warm, the drinks are cold and the locals are fascinating. Today's visit we learnt that the only Spanish one old man in dungarees knows is "How much for a kilo?"  

We also found a new store promising gifts, antiques and collectibles which most certainly delivered. I found some amazing salt and pepper pots and an old tobacco tin. The lady who owned it and her friend were AMC guides and volunteered on Mt. Washington. They were wicked impressed with our knowledge of the area and pointed us in the direction of some more places that were a little off the beaten track and definitely off the tourist maps. 

Following their directions, we headed back east through Bethlehem, which is full of Christmas tree farms and wild turkeys, go figure. At Bretton Woods we took the Base Station Road and came to Upper Falls, which wasn't quite as clearly signed as  we'd been told, but you can normally tell by the wear on the side of the road where places worth stopping are. Crazy locals jump off that rock in the foreground on the left into the pool below. 


We headed back through Crawford Notch, another very steep, winding mountain road, passing by Silver Cascades, the Mountain Division of the railroad now only used by the Conway Scenic Railroad Company and Sawyer's Rock. The scenery around here is just awesome. There is no other word for it. 










New Hampshire: Exploring Intervale

Today was forecast as a hot one, and it was, with it reading 36 degrees after lunch, so we decided to explore the local area a bit more. In the air conditioned car. There were a few things we wanted to try and find and a few places we'd meant to go and hadn't. 


The house where we stay is in Intervale, which straddles the towns of Conway and Bartlett at the foot of Bartlett Mountain, a subpeak of Kearsarge North, which until 1957 was called Pequawket Mountain for the Abenaki people who descended from the region. On local maps Town Hall Road dead ends at Mountain Pond but on Google maps it heads straight across the mountain. Intrigued we headed up. 


The first stop we found was Flat Rocks, an area of the river and surrounding woodland that has been given over for public use but is clearly only known to locals. A steep scramble from the road brings you to a shallow, flat section of the river, perfect for paddling and sunbathing. 


As we continued further it became apparent that the way to dispose of old cars was to abandon them in the woods. We spotted several at varying distances into the trees, some completely rusted out and a massive old Chrysler stuck at the side of the road. It was quite bizarre. 


The road turned into an unpaved one car track as it hit the Jackson town line and as soon as we saw the White Mountains National Forest sign the road ended abruptly. There is a beautiful lake further up there, Mountain Pond, but it's hard to tell how far it is or if it is accessible as the road was so badly damaged by Tropical Storm Irene in 2011 that it's been closed since and not estimated to reopen until at least next year. 

While researching the history of the area, I'd come across mention of an Abenaki totem behind the old Intervale railroad station. The station hasn't been used since 1958 so trying to find the exact location was proving slightly troublesome. While the actual building no longer appears to be there (or may be in someone's backyard), we did find the sign and right across the tracks is the Abenaki Indian Shop and Camp, run by Cheif Laurent until his death in 1917 and subsequently his son Stephen. The totem is no longer there but the standing is, which I managed to identify by the marking in the footing and the cross referencing the National Register of Historic Places Registration Form http://pdfhost.focus.nps.gov/docs/NRHP/Text/91000218.pdf

While it was disappointing that the totem no longer stood, finding the camp itself was still pretty cool. The history of the Abenaki people in this area is fascinating and incredibly sad. Smallpox, war and eugenics decimated the Abenaki population and many fled to Quebec making the case for US federal recognition difficult. 

New Hampshire: Antiquing in Meredith

I love old stuff. Specifically old American stuff. If I lived here my house would be full of old stuff. Old chairs, old dressers, old tables, but unfortunately I don't think I'd get them home to England, so I have to make do with stuff that will fit in my suitcase. Today was distinctly cloudy, so a great day for antiquing. 



Meredith, a town on the shores of Lake Winepeesaukee, is a treasure trove of antique shops, or old tat shops as my uncle would call them. Here you can find everything from old skeleton keys to baseball cards; from full tins of snuff to snowshoes; from shoemaking moulds to windchimes made from old silverware. I am in heaven. I managed to find a 1920 license plate that will look awesome in my kitchen as well as various other bits of wonderful old tat. 

Besides antique stores there is also a brilliant thrift store in Meredith where last year I bought an implement for 50c that turned out to be a meatballer. This year I got a baster, an ice cream scoop, a photo frame, a magnet, two books and a plastic Viking helmet (don't ask) all for the princely sum of $2.50. 


On the way back we stopped off at several other antique and thrift stores, picking up some fabulous pieces at each including some more classic American signage to go in the kitchen from a totally adorable and incredibly eccentric lady in Tamworth. It was somewhat of a shock when she said "We got problems, you know. When they executed that poor boy. It sends shivers down my spine. It's not right". I didn't expect to be discussing Ferguson today, but I guess it shows what an important story it is that white store owners in rural NH are even discussing it with English tourists. 


As we were passing, we couldn't resist stopping off at our favourite lake, Chocorua Lake, for a short time. To say it is beautiful doesn't even begin to do it justice. 



New Hampshire: Exploring

Last year we made a decision that this year we would explore a bit more. Some of our best experiences and stories came from stumbling across places only the locals know about and stopping off in small towns off the beaten track, so today we headed out with the map and a rough idea of a direction. 



First stop was Glen Ellis Falls, a spectacular 64ft waterfall originating on Mt. Washington and flowing down to meet the Saco somewhere around Glen. It was breathtaking. The sheer force of the crystal clear water cascading over the rocks was awesome. I tend to use awesome a lot to describe things around here because they really are. 


After climbing back up from the base of the falls, we continued north on Route 16 and stopped at Wildcat to get a drink and take some shots of the magnificent views of Mt. Washington to the east and Wildcat to the west. It was so lovely we decided to take the short hike loop at the base of the mountain and head up to Thompson Falls. The Way of the Wildcat loop is a delightful hike through the woods with markers telling the history and stories of the area including stories of the Abenaki people and the establishment of the reservation area of the White Mountains National Forest. 

The hike off the trail to the falls certainly seemed much further than the half mile it was stated to be, but it was worth it when we arrived. Thompson Falls were a hidden gem up until 2011 - when the Thompson Falls Trail became an official trail of the White Mountain National Forest - the falls had largely remained a mystery. Apart from an appearance on the 1942 USGS North Conway quadrangle and a brief mention in an AMC White Mountain Guide dating to the 1950's. It is still a very secluded, very pretty, picturesque cascade of water over a clam shaped ledge without the heavy foot traffic associated with other falls in the area, in fact we were entirely alone. 


After a somewhat strenuous morning of hiking, we headed north again in search of sustenance. We stopped in Gorham as there appeared to be a plethora of eateries, however as we walked down Main St it looked more and more deserted. Everywhere was closed. I'm not sure if Gorham comes alive in the evening, but it definitely sleeps during the day. After grabbing a Burger King (teenage boys turn into monsters if left hungry for too long), we headed west and back down the other side of Mt. Washington through Crawford Notch, where the scenery is just as impressive. 

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