New England Road Trip: Conway, New Hampshire

After grabbing lobster rolls and root beer to go we set off from Kennebunkport towards New Hampshire. The sat nav pronounced we were at our destination but we found ourselves at a Doggy Daycare Centre instead. Driving up and down the "White Mountain Highway" we were starting to get worried. The road had intermittent run-down clapboard buildings and abandoned diners, certainly nowhere we would want to stay.

After coming to the conclusion that we were lost we pulled in at a sign writer's place where I found an old guy with an oxygen cylinder chain smoking, watching football on the TV. It was slightly bizarre, but he was very helpful in a gruff sort of way and explained there was some consternation amongst locals about which road was actually "White Mountain Highway" and apparently businesses only called it that because it sounded "pretty". We were told we needed Route 16, which confused me slightly as all the signs said I was on Route 16, but evidently the old guy didn't think he lived on Route 16 any more than he thought he lived on White Mountain Highway. Luckily at this point his wife arrived and gave us pretty good instructions back to the other bit of Route 16 and we found the resort fairly easily after that.

After driving up and don't a road with no apparent name, and getting seriously concerned about the sort of place we might be staying, to say we were delighted to find we had a loft room with mezzanine level in a charming old resort right on the river would be an understatement.


And one of the advantages of having driven up and don't that road we still don't know the name of is that we spotted this amazing 50s style roadside diner, complete with cardboard cut-outs of Marilyn and James, karaoke jukebox and popcorn in place of bread rolls.


 The waitress (who is either the nicest person in the world or needs glasses because she thought I was 16!) recommended we drive up the Kanc as the scenery was great. So after homemade muffins straight from the oven for breakfast we headed up the Kancamagus Highway, and the scenery certainly didn't disappoint.

We'd decided to stop at Lower Falls and go swimming in the river. It was simply stunning. Although climbing out to one of the big boulders in the middle of the river to get some pictures almost turned out to be a bad idea when I slipped right on my ass in the river on the way back. Big bruise but I saved the camera!

Further up the Kanc we stopped at Rocky Gorge, which again was pretty spectacular, but no swimming here as the falls and undercurrents are too dangerous.

We continued west on the highway to Passaconaway, the site of a former lumbar mill community, where today just one house, a barn and the graveyard remain, and went hiking (yes, Andy, hiking) in the woods. For the best part of an hour we didn't see a soul as we walked amongst 100ft trees and along the river bank, across gorges where the railroad once ran.

 After a delightful lunch in town we returned to the resort to take the canoes out on the River Saco at the bottom of the garden. Which was much harder work than I expected, but a wonderful way to spend an afternoon.

Then it was time for complimentary fresh baked cookies and iced tea. Merrill Farm Resort certainly lived up to it's claim to be "The Friendliest Little Resort".


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